Travel tidbits: Shanghai

Having traveled in China and Taiwan for the first time since 2020, I have some thoughts. The past 4,5 weeks showed me many things that remain the same, have changed hugely or did not notice as much before. I will put some of these into words in my next few posts.

When I moved to Shanghai, I ended up quite liking the city but not loving it as I did Beijing. Returning to it this year, I appreciated its qualities a lot more, although I have reservations about its future as well.

As a focal point for international business, Shanghai feels more relaxed and in a sense ‘less Chinese’ than many other cities. Compared to the increased focus on security in Beijing, the difference was even clearer this time. There were foreigners on the streets quite regularly, and we even saw a group of them on a city tour of some kind.

Although I knew it, I was still surprised at how little I recognized of the city. The street names rang familiar, but the buildings and actual restaurants and shops were all replaced. It is weird to self-doubt your memory as you walk around, when some key buildings still exist but everything around it changed. Or did it never even exist?

Going around the city, I did feel the city’s fabric actually being partly redesigned. I took a look around the neighborhood where I used to guide food tours, and it was totally closed off. Surprisingly, the prison there (Hongkou District), seemed to have expanded, although I did not check if it is on the map now (it was not on a Chinese map before) and maybe it has gotten a different purpose, although the thick walls and razor wire ensured a not-so-friendly impression. The actual houses though, caleld Shikumen in Chinese, were all closed and any entrance gates fully sealed off. It made me kind of sad to remember the hustle and bustle that used to be around here, the good food and snacks that will be impossible to get here anymore.

And this was not the only neighborhood in this state. Another Shikumen around Yu Garden was in the same state. I understand wanting to renovate the areas or possibly redeveloping them to make room for highrise to create more housing. However, seeing the state of China’s real estate market I am doubtful that this large-scale development will end up profiting the general public. It seems more of it is destined for commercial use, judged by information on the tarps at Yu Garden, which I do not think is a good trade-off for the city, nor its residents.

Besides these old parts being closed for redevelopment, there was another shopping mall I used to go to that was completely derelict. It looked like it got flooded or otherwise damaged, but still accessible and on the maps as well. Seeing old photos of it gave me an especially melancholic feeling. So there were some nice surprises about Shanghai, but also some worrying developments pointing to its future. It seems to have retained a bit more of its character, but is still going through plenty of change.

A Taste of News: 1.000 trees in Shanghai

As many in my direct circle know, I read quite some news. I try to mention at least once per day that I read something in the news, casually, in a conversation. And since commentary and reviewing is something else I like to do, I thought of starting a series where I write my thoughts about an article I read. A lot of them will be related to China, since that is one of the topics I follow most closely.

Dezeen Awards China 2023 Shortlist: 1.000 Trees Phase 1 by Thomas Heatherwick
Dezeen

Seeing this building pass by in an awards list definitely piqued my interest. I have seen this building mainly as a collection of grey blocks and round platforms. The forms were distinct against the sky and along the river, but they seemed to stand out in the bad way many Chinese buildings will stand out. By being special but also quite ugly.

As it was on the shortlist for a new architecture award from a well-known platform, it made me look up which judges are involved. A quick scroll shows what seems to be a relatively well-balanced team of Chinese and British architects and designers. But I always have a nagging feeling that often buildings for these kinds of awards get chosen more on looks than practical use.

At the same time, somewhere a memory got triggered that I read something about a list of ugliest Chinese buildings and this one being among the top. A quick search proved me right, it was the top pick for 2021. Having read some articles by Thomas Heatherwick als made me doubtful of the attitude its founder has, and reading the quote of the Ugliest Buildings competition judges only reinforces this:

They felt it “lacked a basic understanding of Chinese culture and did not bother engaging in extensive, in-depth emotional communication with the public in advance.” Although it is written in a fuzzy way, I do agree that the building is mainly meant to be eye-catching and does not reflect or reinvent any Chinese aspects in an interesting way. With a bit of luck I will be in Shanghai next year and able to judge it with my own eyes.

A Taste of News: Halloween in China

Because one can never have too many categories that only have 1 post, I am starting something new to see if it helps me to start writing more regularly again.

Shanghai’s Halloween Party, a Rare Chance for Chinese to Vent in Style
New York Times

Halloween is one of my least favorite holidays. I did not celebrate it when I was younger and at my current age I have a feeling it is more related to commerce (what is not these days?) than any actual celebrations. The whole ringing door bells and asking for candy thing is related to Saint Martin for me and then you get to hold a lantern and sing a song, so that seems vastly superior to me.

What struck me from the article is the spot where all the Chinese partygoers were photographed. Whenever I see a photo of Shanghai or Beijing, I cannot help but try to figure out where it was taken. Especially the big overpass rings a bell, somewhere in the back of my brain. Some of the other photos are probably taken around Xuhui Road?

Secondly, I identify heavily with all of the non-dressed people in the background who are either frozen in an awkward position or looking on their phone. This is how I would feature on one of these photos. This is how I would celebrate Halloween.

Thirdly, I am surprised that any politically tinted costumes were found. I would say this is a slightly Western bias to look for these kinds of themes, but I do find it nice to see the Chinese are being as creative as ever within their limits. The cucumber is going to give me nightmares though.

Various exercises in self-control

In general, I view myself as a pretty disciplined person. I exercise regularly, am able to just take 1 candy out of a bag and tend to come on time. But I realize that especially in China, the exercises in self-control come in great numbers.

Summer is here, and surprisingly it is not even “just-let-me-die-already-hot”. I keep repeating this to every person I talk to, we definitely have a reverse climate change on this side of the globe now. Of course, summer preparations tend to call for self-discipline. Bikini bodies, tanning sessions and pool parties do not go in moderation, but the preparation for those do.

There do not tend to be a whole lot of bikinis and pool parties in the center of Shanghai. What there are a whole lot of in the city, are mosquitoes. And not only in the evening, like I was used to when younger, but all the time and everywhere.

At the office, at the gym, at cafes, restaurants and of course outside. Unless you constantly douse yourself in mosquito spray, you will get bitten. Add to that the fact that my blood is ‘sweet’ (to compensate for my sour personality no doubt) and I attract mosquitoes anywhere. Furthermore, I am also too lazy to want to heavily smell like citronella all the time, so I just get bitten. A lot.

There are definitely different kinds of mosquitoes or bugs buzzing around, because luckily most bites disappear in a few hours or 1 day. But that unfortunately does not lessen the fact that I itch a lot, in inconvenient places. My toes, my fingers, heels, shins, hips, neck, basically anywhere that you can think of gets bitten. Even with clothes on. Or in the rain.

Even if I would not bite my nails, which I still do from time to time, I would not have enough fingers and nails to continually scratch my whole body (and I could not do anything either during that time as well then). So this is my highest form of self-discipline that I employ: no scratching.

It sets me and my legs apart from the other Chinese who generally have very spotted legs because of all the mosquito bites they (presumably) scratch open. Yes, I accept disciples.

Nostalgia is a powerful thing

It is almost time for the new year to start (again, more on that in my post of last last year). And this year, I am returning to Beijing where I lived for almost 3 years. Planning stuff with friends to do there is of course the perfect moment to think back on all those good times.

I actually do remember quite well that I was quite annoyed with Beijing when I left. It was way too noisy, the people rude, the air polluted, the food greasy, the temperatures too high or too low and the city all in all just did not attract me that much anymore.

Fast forward to having stayed in Shanghai for only a little over 6 months, and I am already telling everyone that I like Beijing more. Its noise and rude people seem eccentric now, the polluted air a ‘minor inconvenience’, the food flavorful and the temperatures are only a bit better in winter and worse in summer where I am now.

What is worse, this does not change when I actually return to Beijing. Everything seems nicer in a smaller time frame. Even when I am sad that things have disappeared, as they always do, the joy of recognition is much stronger. Oh, and chaotic traffic is the best. Not getting any fines when cycling as well. Not having to break out in cold sweat whenever I ignore a red traffic light, afraid a cop will suddenly turn up behind me is also pretty relaxed.

So I will be enjoying my new year in the best and worst place in China I know. I will give Shanghai a chance the rest of the year.