Having traveled in China and Taiwan for the first time since 2020, I have some thoughts. The past 4,5 weeks showed me many things that remain the same, have changed hugely or did not notice as much before. I will put some of these into words in my next few posts.

32 million people. Almost twice the size of the Netherlands, that is Chongqing. I think the first time I heard someone talk about Chongqing what I remember adding to my knowledge besides hotpot being a specialty from the city, that it is confusingly mountainous. There were some animated stories about people entering shopping centers at ground level and suddenly coming out at the 5th floor, but it turning out to be ground level on the other side.

I also watched Chongqing Hotpot during a trip to another Chinese city, a gritty movie about some incurred debts instigating violence, and eating a lot of hotpot in between, somewhere underground.

Arriving in the city proper, its terrain certainly did not disappoint. The hostel we were staying at was at the 9th floor, but you could also exit there, walking on the roofs while having the eery feeling that you were on ground level since the highrises were still towering over you. As for the underground hotpot, we ended up seeing a surprising amount of history on the Sino-Japanese war (1937-1945) since the Chinese government moved to Chongqing in 1941, and that resulted in many bombings and thus underground shelters being built. Next time there can definitely be more time devoted to exploring the different ones which are apparently increasingly being redeveloped in to restaurants, shops, cinemas and hotels.

As to two other claims to fame for Chongqing, the rivers are properly impressive and Hongya Cave bears some resemblance to the atmosphere of Spirited Away, but less so than expected. The architecture actually feels somewhat nostalgic, since it is all immense buildings like the ones that used to be built in China everywhere about 15 years ago. Also, I do not think it reflects reality, but the skyscrapers feel about 10-20 stories higher than usual.

Walking around was quite exciting with the height differences and a good workout since you also go up and down a good number of stairs on any distance. Personally I am not a fan of cities with rivers that you want to cross often, since that is just extra distance you always have to cover. And that is especially the case in Chongqing, crossing a bridge on the way back one night took us a good 25 minutes, and chances of being on a bike are low with the hilly terrain.

I also wonder if the size of the city allowed it to rebuild so many ‘traditional’ areas. We went to at least 1 every day, and they really have many similar offerings as to snacks, shops and general atmosphere. Also, I really wonder if there will ever be some rules about the lights at night, because while pretty they were really extreme both in colors and amounts. I basically feel that even though you may live on the 30th floor, you will still close your curtains to block the lights outside. And we do not even have any curtains in our current appartment!

Still, the city’s identity, although kind of a big, bigger, biggest, is quite distinct and different. The height differences give you the feeling of constantly uncovering something new, and with such a big area there is plenty more to be seen a next time.