Travel tidbits: security

Having traveled in China and Taiwan for the first time since 2020, I have some thoughts. The past 4,5 weeks showed me many things that remain the same, have changed hugely or did not notice as much before. I will put some of these into words in my next few posts.

This time around, it definitely felt like security was increased. Especially at the metro stations and in the metro as well. Guards were more actively checking up on substances, items and eating in the metro. Traffic lights with cameras were more common, snapping shots of jaywalkers. And identification was necessary way more often than before.

Security was also the aspect that set Beijing apart the most clearly. Of course it did not help that we were there at the tail end of the national holiday, which naturally meant increased security and guards around the Forbidden City and Tian’anmen Square. But I did not expect my boyfriend to be held back because they found some of his (work) papers suspicious(?). I guess it was a good thing the Chinese for ‘patent’ did not come up in my head immediately, since that probably would not have helped the case.

Anyway, I did not think the already quite performative security could be pushed even further. I guess it did not really surprise me that much, and only in Beijing did they have guards walking around in metro carts. I was surprised that one of them told me I was not allowed to eat, but it comforted me that nobody batted an eye when I finished my corn after he got off.

Security at metro stations did increase though, and was a bit more strict. Liquid checks were quite common in all cities, almost always being asked to take a sip or occasionally having my bottle being put on a machine that probably identified it as safe. We were also asked more specifically about ‘dangerous objects’ such as pocket knives, which my boyfriend ended up packing in the top of his backpack for easy access. At the same time, anytime we needed to show or prove something, the guards seemed kind of at a loss at what was supposed to happen next. Even my excuses were often not listened to and they seemed to just let us go with the knowledge that checking us was the most important.

I was surprised however, how much we had to identify ourselves this time around. Granted, Chinese IDs have become more ubiquitous as convenient, personalized ways to gain access to all sorts of attractions. At the same time, the system was a lot less seamless for foreign passport holders, so we spent some time with guards looking over our shoulder as we filled out perfunctory forms that did not generate QR codes for us, and holding up our passports to get entry if we could not scan.

Lastly, I received some additional scrutiny at the customs border almost every time we passed. Granted, I have about 5 expired Chinese visa and about 25 stamps in random order in my passport so that confusion is fully understandable. However, it also seems that some of my information was not always available (like the Chinese name I used when living in China) or that my passport could for some reason not be scanned. I was happy however to not get questioned about the quirky combination of a Chinese face and Dutch passport.

In the end, China definitely interprets and carries out security quite differently than we tend to view it in the West. Where we may specifically add guards under certain circumstances, in China they are present in many places, but often asleep. Something my boyfriend also notices about many of the police officers he spotted. There may be 6 security guards at the metro entrance, but 2 of them are looking at their phone and the other 4 are almost fighting to get to tell the passengers what to do or to scan them. The fact that perfunctory security measures still seem to be the focus, at least in the big cities and for the general population, is a postive. Relatively.

Travel tidbits: Chengdu

I do not know where it was published, but I remember seeing Chengdu top some list of most liveable cities in China according to expats. The last time I visited was more than 10 years ago, so there were no recognitions, but there were plenty of pleasant surprises.

Chengdu is one of those cities where there is a nice blend of touristic and commercial spots with residential areas. It feels like there is a sort of balance between these two, allowing you to move around quite naturally. The first day in Chengdu it was only a half day actually, and we ended up going to a shopping center to exchange something. This was further out of the city and looked like it was not entirely operating anymore, something confirmed with pictures on the map that showed a lot more liveliness, but the city proper pretty much lacks this luckily.

It feels like it is a fairly relaxed city, lacking a certain pride Beijing has as the capital while having more of a character than Shanghai as a trade center and being a bit more convenient than Chongqing as a collection of hills. There is the Chinese liveliness, but also some areas populated by the foreigners. There are the touristic old streets, but also huge modern art museums with more experimental architecture.

I think one of the things that annoyed me most, was the city leaning so heavily into its panda image. I have seen pandas but have never really been a fan. I find it mystifying that China chose such an incapable animal as its source of national pride. I guess they wanted a project to really challenge themselves with. But besides my disdain for the animal, it is no surprise that the whole industry among it turns out to have some serious issues.

But, besides that there was a lot of nice food, various temples with surprisingly active and earnest worshippers, a nice mix of green and blue, plenty of shared bikes to use, and a peek at alternative culture.

Travel tidbits: Chongqing

32 million people. Almost twice the size of the Netherlands, that is Chongqing. I think the first time I heard someone talk about Chongqing what I remember adding to my knowledge besides hotpot being a specialty from the city, that it is confusingly mountainous. There were some animated stories about people entering shopping centers at ground level and suddenly coming out at the 5th floor, but it turning out to be ground level on the other side.

I also watched Chongqing Hotpot during a trip to another Chinese city, a gritty movie about some incurred debts instigating violence, and eating a lot of hotpot in between, somewhere underground.

Arriving in the city proper, its terrain certainly did not disappoint. The hostel we were staying at was at the 9th floor, but you could also exit there, walking on the roofs while having the eery feeling that you were on ground level since the highrises were still towering over you. As for the underground hotpot, we ended up seeing a surprising amount of history on the Sino-Japanese war (1937-1945) since the Chinese government moved to Chongqing in 1941, and that resulted in many bombings and thus underground shelters being built. Next time there can definitely be more time devoted to exploring the different ones which are apparently increasingly being redeveloped in to restaurants, shops, cinemas and hotels.

As to two other claims to fame for Chongqing, the rivers are properly impressive and Hongya Cave bears some resemblance to the atmosphere of Spirited Away, but less so than expected. The architecture actually feels somewhat nostalgic, since it is all immense buildings like the ones that used to be built in China everywhere about 15 years ago. Also, I do not think it reflects reality, but the skyscrapers feel about 10-20 stories higher than usual.

Walking around was quite exciting with the height differences and a good workout since you also go up and down a good number of stairs on any distance. Personally I am not a fan of cities with rivers that you want to cross often, since that is just extra distance you always have to cover. And that is especially the case in Chongqing, crossing a bridge on the way back one night took us a good 25 minutes, and chances of being on a bike are low with the hilly terrain.

I also wonder if the size of the city allowed it to rebuild so many ‘traditional’ areas. We went to at least 1 every day, and they really have many similar offerings as to snacks, shops and general atmosphere. Also, I really wonder if there will ever be some rules about the lights at night, because while pretty they were really extreme both in colors and amounts. I basically feel that even though you may live on the 30th floor, you will still close your curtains to block the lights outside. And we do not even have any curtains in our current appartment!

Still, the city’s identity, although kind of a big, bigger, biggest, is quite distinct and different. The height differences give you the feeling of constantly uncovering something new, and with such a big area there is plenty more to be seen a next time.

Asia is a country after all

Two questions popped up when I read about budget cuts for universities and how Leiden University is planning to cut costs: How is it possible to even consider merging all these specialized language studies in bigger regional programs? Would they even consider this for any STEM programs? But first, some context about my experience studying Chinastudies in Leiden.

Although I get asked from time to time if I am a student, that time is long gone. And looking at the recent developments and policy proposals in the education sector, I am happy to be done (for now). At the same time, it is a pretty wild idea that there seem to be people working to not improve our education system. Why is that?

Being adopted and going to China at quite a young age, I already knew for a while before going to university that I wanted to study Chinese. Starting in the year after China hosted the Olympic Games, Chinastudies offered a new window onto China and many others on the region as well. Coming from a small city in Limburg, it was the start of seeing more people like me and getting talked to in English. It was the start of uncovering a history, culture and language that felt foreign but eventually became familiar. It was the start of imagining a life beyond the Netherlands and actually blending into a different environment.

During my studies, I would often get the question of what work I wanted to do afterwards. The suggestions mostly were translator or teacher. I understand that there are some studies which train you for a specific job, but the beauty of humanities is that it offers skills that can be useful in a wide range of job fields and positions. That does not mean I did not struggle with finding work, or that I think this aspect could be better incorporated in the curriculum, but it seems these are not the more practical matters that universities want to focus on.

Recently, I listened to a podcast that described Just-In-Time production, which in modern marketing terms would be called ‘lean’. It basically means that factories only produce as much as they need and keep inventory as low as possible. This means the entire output is customer- or demand-driven, which seems to be a system that Leiden University wants to follow as well. Why offer academic programs that nobody wants to study? Why not shrink the number of staff to just the bare minimum? Why focus on the quality of a program instead of the money it generates?

The ignorance that Leiden University’s management shows by even considering to merge so many different humanities programs, is outright insulting. It is a clear case of undervaluing the worth that academic language and culture programs provide and purely looking at cost-effectiveness. Why try to pretend otherwise?

When I was living in China, or travelling in the country nowadays, I realized many Chinese do not know the Netherlands exist. Admittedly, it does not help that the Chinese name for the Netherlands sounds a lot like a province (Helan vs Henan) and I do not like Dutch either. But adding Europe would often elicit some nodding and affirmative noises. “Ah I see, it is in Europe”, was the general feeling I got. “Ah I see, it is in Asia”, is the general feeling I now get from Leiden University’s management.

Travel tidbits: Shanghai

When I moved to Shanghai, I ended up quite liking the city but not loving it as I did Beijing. Returning to it this year, I appreciated its qualities a lot more, although I have reservations about its future as well.

As a focal point for international business, Shanghai feels more relaxed and in a sense ‘less Chinese’ than many other cities. Compared to the increased focus on security in Beijing, the difference was even clearer this time. There were foreigners on the streets quite regularly, and we even saw a group of them on a city tour of some kind.

Although I knew it, I was still surprised at how little I recognized of the city. The street names rang familiar, but the buildings and actual restaurants and shops were all replaced. It is weird to self-doubt your memory as you walk around, when some key buildings still exist but everything around it changed. Or did it never even exist?

Going around the city, I did feel the city’s fabric actually being partly redesigned. I took a look around the neighborhood where I used to guide food tours, and it was totally closed off. Surprisingly, the prison there (Hongkou District), seemed to have expanded, although I did not check if it is on the map now (it was not on a Chinese map before) and maybe it has gotten a different purpose, although the thick walls and razor wire ensured a not-so-friendly impression. The actual houses though, caleld Shikumen in Chinese, were all closed and any entrance gates fully sealed off. It made me kind of sad to remember the hustle and bustle that used to be around here, the good food and snacks that will be impossible to get here anymore.

And this was not the only neighborhood in this state. Another Shikumen around Yu Garden was in the same state. I understand wanting to renovate the areas or possibly redeveloping them to make room for highrise to create more housing. However, seeing the state of China’s real estate market I am doubtful that this large-scale development will end up profiting the general public. It seems more of it is destined for commercial use, judged by information on the tarps at Yu Garden, which I do not think is a good trade-off for the city, nor its residents.

Besides these old parts being closed for redevelopment, there was another shopping mall I used to go to that was completely derelict. It looked like it got flooded or otherwise damaged, but still accessible and on the maps as well. Seeing old photos of it gave me an especially melancholic feeling. So there were some nice surprises about Shanghai, but also some worrying developments pointing to its future. It seems to have retained a bit more of its character, but is still going through plenty of change.

Travel tidbits: Beijing

First, I will make a comparisons between the cities that I went to and the cities I remember. And of course, the most prominent one among these is Beijing.

Having lived there for almost 3 years, I have a certain soft spot for it. The convenient grid-like structure, while still being able to wander around in the hutong alleys. Its megalomaniac official buildings that exist next to ramshackle or improvised architecture. The mix of old and new, a certain liveliness and rough personality that the city exemplifies.

Thus, it was quite shocking to realize how much of it changed. Gone are the food stands on the streets, everything is in a little shop. Worker’s Stadium is completely cleaned up without any clubs or drunk people hanging out near it. At one entrance there is a Michelin-star restaurant, quite the opposite of how it used to be. Gone are many dirty and messy corners in the city centre that would contrast with the glitz and glamour of the malls. Now everything is commercialized, shiny and new. How could you want it any other way.

Part of the hutong alleys remains the same, luckily. The redevelopment seems to be more focused on actually improving living quarters, than bulldozing anything that seems old. The quiet of the hutongs, compared to the noise at the big boulevards is still immediate and remains a huge contrast. The splendor of highlights such as the Forbidden City, Summer Palace and Great Wall is not diminished, but the city itself seems to have been reeled in. The metro has guards actively patrolling and commenting on behavior. Every ticket needs to be booked on your passport or ID. There are noticeably less foreign faces on the streets.

If I seem overtly disappointed, it is probably nostalgia speaking. I am not saying Beijing is not interesting or special anymore. It is just a whole lot different from how I remember it being. There is a reason I used to come back to Beijing that often when I already lived in Shanghai. I am not sure there are as many reasons now for me to keep coming back.

A Taste of News: Fearing the family

As many in my direct circle know, I read quite some news. I try to mention at least once per day that I read something in the news, casually, in a conversation. And since commentary and reviewing is something else I like to do, I thought of starting a series where I write my thoughts about an article I read. A lot of them will be related to China, since that is one of the topics I follow most closely.

AI Game Mimicking Nosy Relatives Takes China by Storm
Sixth Tone

Lunar New Year took place last weekend. Happy year of the dragon! May you prosper! The gods will bring you luck and happiness. Which of course means a stable job, a spacious house and a lovely family.

Festivities make for special times. I can immediately recall which time was the most memorable of all the New Years spent in China, but today we are not talking about that. This news article was recommended to me on Facebook, one of the few organizations I still follow on the platform, and had an extraordinarily high number of likes. Unsurprisingly. I think Chinese New Year is most well-known for a few things: the great number of people that move around the country (the infamous greatest migration worldwide), the great number of dishes you will consume during the holiday and the great number of annoying questions your relatives will unrelentlessly pound you with.

I think this is one of the cases where you cannot win, unless you are young and only need to collect money from a red envelope. If you are a student, you need to get good grades and find a partner timely (but big minus points if it seems you are sleeping around or dating multiple people, that is not proper behavior), if you have started your first job you should not argue with your boss and find a partner timely, if you have a partner you should buy a house and get a kid, if you have a partner and a house and a kid you should make sure it is well-behaved and getting good grades. In other words, the comments are endless. And this game must be difficult, excruciatingly so.

Because there are somewhat extraordinary pressures on Chinese returning for the new year to their families, it is no wonder that it is an endless source of different societal behaviors that may be more or less true on a larger scale. Children hiring partners online to take home has been a big story for a couple of years, children not going home is starting to become a bigger story to emphasize individualism and assertiveness, traditional costumes being replaced by cheap uniformity bought online. I am surprised I am not reading more about certain foods being replaced but I guess that is the thing most people probably can agree on to keep as traditional as possible.

I always find it fascinating when people seem to be more concerned with how things should be, than why things are a certain way. And what I think the screenshots of this game show very well, is that it is always indirect. This is the network of guanxi at a microscale. Everybody represents someone else, besides themselves. It is not only about their own hopes, but the sense of responsibility they feel towards other family members to put somebody on the spot.

Although I doubt this game will be played by those who would benefit the most from some self-reflection, perhaps it can serve as a practice to those who need to submit to this ritual every year. Maybe you find some new appreciation for your actual family members. Or discover that they are even worse than AI could imagine.

A Taste of News: Rocking that wall

Rock Climbing Gains Traction as After-Work ‘Meditation on a Wall’
Sixth Tone

I like mountains. Living in the Netherlands, I feel the lack of mountains has increased my need for height. At the same time, it sometimes seems that bouldering and climbing both exploded in popularity the last few years.

When I was still swiping on the dating app, the algorithm seemed to discover fairly quickly that it should show me some sporty guys. As a result, almost every other guy was either an avid skiing fan or a bouldering champion. In real life, the balance seems to be quite different, although my current partner also boulders.

For the Chinese, it is almost surprising that the sport is only now catching on. Bouldering and climbing seem quite adjacent to martial arts disciplines. It reminds me of Shaolin monks who could probably (not really) scale boulders and mountains without any problems. Unsurprisingly, the article mentions that practitioners do find the sport quite meditative.

Another thing that surprises me in the popularity of bouldering is that it is not very competitive. Although this is a broad generalization, my memories of doing sports in China is that you are pushed to do something to become good at it and so that you can then win. I guess the lack of competition makes it a good antidote for the rat race that is modern society.

Moreover, the article mentions that climbing is also becoming more popular. With all the empty flats and skyscrapers, I guess there should be a good opportunity to turn those locations into climbing gyms. It is at least slightly safer than turning them into bungee jumping attractions.

A Taste of News: How women fight

Young Chinese Women Are Defying the Communist Party
New York Times

When I saw this article passing by, the name sounded familiar to me. A quick search turned out that I reviewed one of her books which I found enjoyable, but also slightly simplifying key things.

I have this feeling from time to time when reading, hearing or viewing things that it cannot be as easy as it sounds. That is not to be a buzzkill or a cynic, although I enjoy playing both these roles at select times, sometimes there is a bigger story to tell.

That is not to say that I totally disagree with the writer. It is moreso that the things I pointed out in a previous blog arenot as easily conquered. It is precisely because Chinese women, or almost all women for that matter, are not that pliable and obedient to immediately act according to the party line.

That birth rates keep on declining just as the number of marriages, certainly show the increased independence of Chinese women. At the same time are many barriers still up and new ones being created.

It is always heartening to read about fighting spirits, how people defy expectations. Actively row against the stream. At the same time, it is the exceptionalism of these stories that make it difficult to have faith in the future.

But that is probably what the Communist Party and most authoritarian regimes count on. It would be nice for things just to be a bit simpler sometimes.

A Taste of News: Chinese female roles

China’s Male Leaders Signal to Women That Their Place Is in the Home
New York Times

Being a Chinese woman has never seemed easy to me. When I lived in China, I got a taste of it in some situations and it does feel like the attitude switches between extremes and also clear age shifts.

Reading that there is more emphasis from senior Chinese leadership on women’s roles in the family seems to me similar to the movement of the ‘tradwives’. It feels in many places there is a wish for stable, clear roles that make you feel like life is a little less complicated. At the same time, the Chinese characteristics are clear in that there is a distinct top-down dynamic. Of course leadership is in the front seat when they want to ensure that everyone aims for the right direction.

At the same time, I think it is often overblown how much the leadership influences these kinds of developments. We see that Chinese women have become more and more independent, even subverting expectations about birth preference in some cases.

And even though it may seem the party is actively steering people, it is definitely not a one-on-one influence. Sure, I also got questions if my parents were not apalled at the fact that I do not want children, and I got my fair share of comments that I should not be single in my late twenties. At the same time, Chinese people are resourceful and practical. If you are an intelligent and capable woman, you will generally have opportunities to capitalize on that. So it will be interesting to see if this government stance will develop into something more tangible like an actual campaign or if it just remains a message for the general public to hear.