Travel tidbits: security

Having traveled in China and Taiwan for the first time since 2020, I have some thoughts. The past 4,5 weeks showed me many things that remain the same, have changed hugely or did not notice as much before. I will put some of these into words in my next few posts.

This time around, it definitely felt like security was increased. Especially at the metro stations and in the metro as well. Guards were more actively checking up on substances, items and eating in the metro. Traffic lights with cameras were more common, snapping shots of jaywalkers. And identification was necessary way more often than before.

Security was also the aspect that set Beijing apart the most clearly. Of course it did not help that we were there at the tail end of the national holiday, which naturally meant increased security and guards around the Forbidden City and Tian’anmen Square. But I did not expect my boyfriend to be held back because they found some of his (work) papers suspicious(?). I guess it was a good thing the Chinese for ‘patent’ did not come up in my head immediately, since that probably would not have helped the case.

Anyway, I did not think the already quite performative security could be pushed even further. I guess it did not really surprise me that much, and only in Beijing did they have guards walking around in metro carts. I was surprised that one of them told me I was not allowed to eat, but it comforted me that nobody batted an eye when I finished my corn after he got off.

Security at metro stations did increase though, and was a bit more strict. Liquid checks were quite common in all cities, almost always being asked to take a sip or occasionally having my bottle being put on a machine that probably identified it as safe. We were also asked more specifically about ‘dangerous objects’ such as pocket knives, which my boyfriend ended up packing in the top of his backpack for easy access. At the same time, anytime we needed to show or prove something, the guards seemed kind of at a loss at what was supposed to happen next. Even my excuses were often not listened to and they seemed to just let us go with the knowledge that checking us was the most important.

I was surprised however, how much we had to identify ourselves this time around. Granted, Chinese IDs have become more ubiquitous as convenient, personalized ways to gain access to all sorts of attractions. At the same time, the system was a lot less seamless for foreign passport holders, so we spent some time with guards looking over our shoulder as we filled out perfunctory forms that did not generate QR codes for us, and holding up our passports to get entry if we could not scan.

Lastly, I received some additional scrutiny at the customs border almost every time we passed. Granted, I have about 5 expired Chinese visa and about 25 stamps in random order in my passport so that confusion is fully understandable. However, it also seems that some of my information was not always available (like the Chinese name I used when living in China) or that my passport could for some reason not be scanned. I was happy however to not get questioned about the quirky combination of a Chinese face and Dutch passport.

In the end, China definitely interprets and carries out security quite differently than we tend to view it in the West. Where we may specifically add guards under certain circumstances, in China they are present in many places, but often asleep. Something my boyfriend also notices about many of the police officers he spotted. There may be 6 security guards at the metro entrance, but 2 of them are looking at their phone and the other 4 are almost fighting to get to tell the passengers what to do or to scan them. The fact that perfunctory security measures still seem to be the focus, at least in the big cities and for the general population, is a postive. Relatively.

Travel tidbits: Chengdu

I do not know where it was published, but I remember seeing Chengdu top some list of most liveable cities in China according to expats. The last time I visited was more than 10 years ago, so there were no recognitions, but there were plenty of pleasant surprises.

Chengdu is one of those cities where there is a nice blend of touristic and commercial spots with residential areas. It feels like there is a sort of balance between these two, allowing you to move around quite naturally. The first day in Chengdu it was only a half day actually, and we ended up going to a shopping center to exchange something. This was further out of the city and looked like it was not entirely operating anymore, something confirmed with pictures on the map that showed a lot more liveliness, but the city proper pretty much lacks this luckily.

It feels like it is a fairly relaxed city, lacking a certain pride Beijing has as the capital while having more of a character than Shanghai as a trade center and being a bit more convenient than Chongqing as a collection of hills. There is the Chinese liveliness, but also some areas populated by the foreigners. There are the touristic old streets, but also huge modern art museums with more experimental architecture.

I think one of the things that annoyed me most, was the city leaning so heavily into its panda image. I have seen pandas but have never really been a fan. I find it mystifying that China chose such an incapable animal as its source of national pride. I guess they wanted a project to really challenge themselves with. But besides my disdain for the animal, it is no surprise that the whole industry among it turns out to have some serious issues.

But, besides that there was a lot of nice food, various temples with surprisingly active and earnest worshippers, a nice mix of green and blue, plenty of shared bikes to use, and a peek at alternative culture.

Travel tidbits: Chongqing

32 million people. Almost twice the size of the Netherlands, that is Chongqing. I think the first time I heard someone talk about Chongqing what I remember adding to my knowledge besides hotpot being a specialty from the city, that it is confusingly mountainous. There were some animated stories about people entering shopping centers at ground level and suddenly coming out at the 5th floor, but it turning out to be ground level on the other side.

I also watched Chongqing Hotpot during a trip to another Chinese city, a gritty movie about some incurred debts instigating violence, and eating a lot of hotpot in between, somewhere underground.

Arriving in the city proper, its terrain certainly did not disappoint. The hostel we were staying at was at the 9th floor, but you could also exit there, walking on the roofs while having the eery feeling that you were on ground level since the highrises were still towering over you. As for the underground hotpot, we ended up seeing a surprising amount of history on the Sino-Japanese war (1937-1945) since the Chinese government moved to Chongqing in 1941, and that resulted in many bombings and thus underground shelters being built. Next time there can definitely be more time devoted to exploring the different ones which are apparently increasingly being redeveloped in to restaurants, shops, cinemas and hotels.

As to two other claims to fame for Chongqing, the rivers are properly impressive and Hongya Cave bears some resemblance to the atmosphere of Spirited Away, but less so than expected. The architecture actually feels somewhat nostalgic, since it is all immense buildings like the ones that used to be built in China everywhere about 15 years ago. Also, I do not think it reflects reality, but the skyscrapers feel about 10-20 stories higher than usual.

Walking around was quite exciting with the height differences and a good workout since you also go up and down a good number of stairs on any distance. Personally I am not a fan of cities with rivers that you want to cross often, since that is just extra distance you always have to cover. And that is especially the case in Chongqing, crossing a bridge on the way back one night took us a good 25 minutes, and chances of being on a bike are low with the hilly terrain.

I also wonder if the size of the city allowed it to rebuild so many ‘traditional’ areas. We went to at least 1 every day, and they really have many similar offerings as to snacks, shops and general atmosphere. Also, I really wonder if there will ever be some rules about the lights at night, because while pretty they were really extreme both in colors and amounts. I basically feel that even though you may live on the 30th floor, you will still close your curtains to block the lights outside. And we do not even have any curtains in our current appartment!

Still, the city’s identity, although kind of a big, bigger, biggest, is quite distinct and different. The height differences give you the feeling of constantly uncovering something new, and with such a big area there is plenty more to be seen a next time.

Travel tidbits: Taipei

I am not made for a tropical climate. When we arrived in Taipei, my glasses fogged up as soon as we switched from an artificially cooled climate to the hot outside air, directly followed by sweat production.

The last time I had been in Taipei was quite some time ago, so the city was not that familiar to me. However, its atmosphere still was recognizable, especially its blend of Chinese and Japanese influences with local culture. I was surprised that everything felt a bit more rundown and old timey, especially when compared to the glitz and glamour of the big Chinese cities we just came from. Almost all of the vehicles also have gasoline motors, so that made for a lot of noise that is just not that present anymore in most Chinese cities.

One contrast that is still very clear, is the presence of religion. Although there seems to be a bit more interest in China for certain religious practices, it is of course heavily restricted and practice tends to feel very performative. Not so in Taipei. We stumbled upon some prayer times, holidays where statues were taken out, and many offerings (especially for the God of Wealth). Like Japan, the temples in Taipei vary from opulent to small and makeshift. It is clear that they really form part of the city’s and culture’s fabric, in a very natural way which I think is not that common in a lot of Western countries anymore.

Looking back to Taipei, I think it was the place where I felt most comfortable in my memories and experience. I remembered how good the bubble tea and local desserts are, how varied the nature is with sea and mountains so nearby, how bustling the city is but people do queue for the escalators, how weird it is to suddenly stumble upon some Dutch colonial history so far away (although I wrote about that earlier this year in Dutch here), how uninterested I still am in going up Taipei 101, how the night markets are nice to snack at but a bit hectic and making me nervous thinking about huge cockroaches. Although I always like to have a sense of discovery when going places, in this case a bit of recognition was more than welcome.

Travel tidbits: Shanghai

When I moved to Shanghai, I ended up quite liking the city but not loving it as I did Beijing. Returning to it this year, I appreciated its qualities a lot more, although I have reservations about its future as well.

As a focal point for international business, Shanghai feels more relaxed and in a sense ‘less Chinese’ than many other cities. Compared to the increased focus on security in Beijing, the difference was even clearer this time. There were foreigners on the streets quite regularly, and we even saw a group of them on a city tour of some kind.

Although I knew it, I was still surprised at how little I recognized of the city. The street names rang familiar, but the buildings and actual restaurants and shops were all replaced. It is weird to self-doubt your memory as you walk around, when some key buildings still exist but everything around it changed. Or did it never even exist?

Going around the city, I did feel the city’s fabric actually being partly redesigned. I took a look around the neighborhood where I used to guide food tours, and it was totally closed off. Surprisingly, the prison there (Hongkou District), seemed to have expanded, although I did not check if it is on the map now (it was not on a Chinese map before) and maybe it has gotten a different purpose, although the thick walls and razor wire ensured a not-so-friendly impression. The actual houses though, caleld Shikumen in Chinese, were all closed and any entrance gates fully sealed off. It made me kind of sad to remember the hustle and bustle that used to be around here, the good food and snacks that will be impossible to get here anymore.

And this was not the only neighborhood in this state. Another Shikumen around Yu Garden was in the same state. I understand wanting to renovate the areas or possibly redeveloping them to make room for highrise to create more housing. However, seeing the state of China’s real estate market I am doubtful that this large-scale development will end up profiting the general public. It seems more of it is destined for commercial use, judged by information on the tarps at Yu Garden, which I do not think is a good trade-off for the city, nor its residents.

Besides these old parts being closed for redevelopment, there was another shopping mall I used to go to that was completely derelict. It looked like it got flooded or otherwise damaged, but still accessible and on the maps as well. Seeing old photos of it gave me an especially melancholic feeling. So there were some nice surprises about Shanghai, but also some worrying developments pointing to its future. It seems to have retained a bit more of its character, but is still going through plenty of change.

Travel tidbits: Beijing

First, I will make a comparisons between the cities that I went to and the cities I remember. And of course, the most prominent one among these is Beijing.

Having lived there for almost 3 years, I have a certain soft spot for it. The convenient grid-like structure, while still being able to wander around in the hutong alleys. Its megalomaniac official buildings that exist next to ramshackle or improvised architecture. The mix of old and new, a certain liveliness and rough personality that the city exemplifies.

Thus, it was quite shocking to realize how much of it changed. Gone are the food stands on the streets, everything is in a little shop. Worker’s Stadium is completely cleaned up without any clubs or drunk people hanging out near it. At one entrance there is a Michelin-star restaurant, quite the opposite of how it used to be. Gone are many dirty and messy corners in the city centre that would contrast with the glitz and glamour of the malls. Now everything is commercialized, shiny and new. How could you want it any other way.

Part of the hutong alleys remains the same, luckily. The redevelopment seems to be more focused on actually improving living quarters, than bulldozing anything that seems old. The quiet of the hutongs, compared to the noise at the big boulevards is still immediate and remains a huge contrast. The splendor of highlights such as the Forbidden City, Summer Palace and Great Wall is not diminished, but the city itself seems to have been reeled in. The metro has guards actively patrolling and commenting on behavior. Every ticket needs to be booked on your passport or ID. There are noticeably less foreign faces on the streets.

If I seem overtly disappointed, it is probably nostalgia speaking. I am not saying Beijing is not interesting or special anymore. It is just a whole lot different from how I remember it being. There is a reason I used to come back to Beijing that often when I already lived in Shanghai. I am not sure there are as many reasons now for me to keep coming back.

Tourists with Chinese characteristics: bashful backpackers

Although we are in a worldwide pandemic, holidays are not something to be missed. The national holiday in China just passed and I looked with envy at all the traveling going on in the country. It also reminded me of the different kinds of Chinese travelers I would have encountered.

Who?
Millennials, Generation Zs, youngsters who think they are ready to go out into the world. They have enough money to spend on traveling abroad and by themselves, or have enough courage to just dive into the world. Almost always in a pair, either a couple or 2 friends.

Where?
The Lonely Planet and Rough Guide seem a bit too crisp in their hands. They go to the hip coffee places and with an unsure look on their faces order that specific instagrammable drink. Arriving at the desk of hip hostels, they are a bit too tired and carrying bags a bit too new. They aim to set themselves apart from big group travelers by not going to the main highlights, but instead choose all the alternative highlights from the travel guides.

Why?
What is better than traveling? By yourself! All those cool social media photos were taken someplace, without any large travel groups to disturb the environment. They want to strengthen the bond with their friend or significant other, something that will last for the rest of their lives! They have not been able to travel that much yet, so it is high time to change that. With the right equipment and preparation, the world is at their feet!

Thoughts?
How is this so tiring? The bags are heavy, it is too hot and wiping away my sweat just creates more sweat. And after we finally find this small hostel, where our bags barely fit in the lockers, we need to look for another hip dessert shop to get their signature dish. It is fun sometimes, but being together with the other for all this time is actually pretty difficult. And getting the good camera shots is not easy. When do we go home again?

My thoughts?
I have been part of this group, albeit only for a very short time. I knew after doing it for a few weeks, that the backpacking life was not for me. So I always look a bit bemusedly at these hipsters who seem like they just discovered a new way of life that they are not sure they like. Oftentimes, it also seems like the backpackers are ‘backpacking by the book’. The few times I went to well-known local places, I think I always saw a few of them pop up. But hey, I was there as well so we are almost the same. And yeah, if your parents don’t have backpacking equipment, you indeed need to buy it. At least it will be well-worn by the time your kids will want to use them,

Tourists with Chinese characteristics: golden groupies

It is spring and that only means 1 thing in China: flowers. Preferably cherry blossoms. Having spent my past weekend in one of the busiest places I could find to marvel at this wonder of nature, reminded me again of this kind of tourist.

Who?
Aunties and uncles, grannies and grandpas of around 45-50 and up. They almost exclusively travel together in large groups (25-35 people) because their children are busy (unless they belong to the fanatic families) and they can see highlights of 4 places in 4 days.

Where?
Anywhere that is only slightly famous is bound to be flooded by them. Headed by a guide with a flag, umbrella or originally decorated pole, they walk around unabashedly with their caps and snapping pictures of everything they see.

Why?
It is their time to shine! They probably worked hard and took care of everyone all their lives and finally can let it all go loose on a 5-day trip to Europe or by visiting famous spots all over China. They are still healthy, but also privileged (because older) and finally will have a chance to take pictures with shawls, stones and just all the beauty they can tolerate besides them.

Thoughts?
Auntie/granny: finally you are in the famous spot. First, I need a photo with the rock that says the attraction’s name. Then I need a photo with a shawl swaying in the wind. Then I am going to take this tree branch and pull it towards me so the flowers prettily frame my face. Next, I need to push to the front so I can get a photo next to the lake. I know I need to put my one leg before the other. Or my hand on my shoulder. Or both. It is so convenient to have a group guide me to all the important places I need to see.

Uncle/grandpa: okay, now that we are here I will take a photo of my wife with the rock. And then with a shawl. And then with the flowers. And at the lake. So glad she will do all the pushing and pulling for the spot. Next, we will take a picture together at the park. Making memories is very important. When I return to the Sunday park gatherings, we can show off all the places we have been. And no need to drive or look up anything ourselves. It is great to see so many attractions in such a short time.

My thoughts?
Group travelers rank medium to high on my irritation/frustration scale. The guide always blares out information that nobody pays attention to, even though they all have their ears plugged. This means when they step on your foot or push their elbow in your stomach, they also do not hear you gasping. Furthermore, their age, especially the 65+ ones, means it is socially unacceptable to push them back. They take full advantage of their ‘elderly privileges’ to push to the front or take up all the seats. They pull and push at the scenery to make it fit their photos and talk so loud that even I need to put in effort to communicate. But mostly, it is just that there are so many of them. It is the moment you realize that China is an aging society.

Experiencing Chinese communication and family feuds

Fighting happens in the tightest families. I am blessed with families on both sides where this is limited, but that is often not the case for most Chinese. In general, life itself provides plenty of opportunities for things to go wrong, most importantly for the Chinese (and pretty much everyone else): money, work, partner, and kids.

Now, a while back I was on a short trip with a friend of mine (also a foreigner) and indirectly experienced one of the most frightening fights ever. She has described everything in more detail on her terrific blog, go read that as well!

Let me quickly recap: we stayed at an empty AirBnB hotel. The host was the male part of a couple and since it was Chinese New Year some extended family (grandmother, uncle (?), aunt (?)) was present. After a day spent outside, my friend and I returned in the evening and were warmly invited to join a big dinner table, sing karaoke and show off some dancing moves. We were included in video footage to non-present sons and daughters, sang some modern classics and had a great time. But after a while we got tired, the karaoke machine started sputtering and people simply disappeared. So we also went upstairs to sleep, or so was the plan.

However, after having read a bit and trying to sleep, I heard noises downstairs in the restaurant area. Slowly but surely the noises became louder and more distinct. There were 2 persons, most certainly our host couple, screaming things to each other. I could hear other voices trying to hush, but they kept becoming louder. Repeatedly, I heard stuff being thrown on the ground and shattering.

After there was enough thrown around downstairs, I heard footsteps on the stairs to the hallway that was connected to our hotel room. I took a quick peek out the window to see the situation below. It was a mess, with broken glass on the floor and table, mixed with food and a box of chopsticks thrown around.

My heartbeat was so loud I almost thought the people outside must be able to hear it. Instead, I could now hear their insults clearly. The woman screamed: “Fuck your mother! She still owns me 1 million RMB!” The man roared: “Oh please, stop with that and do not dare to say another word about her! This is already long resolved!”

As I mentioned, I am not at all ‘experienced’ in family feuds, and this seemed a particularly feisty one. The insults and accusations were repeated many times. It was definitely not the first time this happened.

To be honest, I was sort of ‘lucky’ to become part of the story. I was also lucky to not be in the same space as the fight since there seemed to be some intense physical contact. At the same time, during the fight it felt like a very tense moment. Since the walls were very thin, and people were thrashing about, it felt like every moment they could stumble in our room. I sat as still as I possibly could, trying to be even more invisible than I arguably already was.

This occasion was certainly my first time hearing pretty much Chinese strangers discuss intimate things so loudly and hotly. But my friend later told me that a previous CNY celebration she experienced also ended in a big family fight. And to be honest, around Christmas do we not see the all-too familiar topic of how to prevent the Christmas atmosphere from being ruined pop up everywhere as well?

So it seems that big occasions lend themselves good to big fights in any place or culture. What was actually the most surprising about this whole thing, is that my friend slept through all of it. When I asked her later if she had heard anything earlier she said: “Yeah the fireworks right?” Truth be told, you do not hear them that often in China I guess.

Tourists with Chinese characteristics: fanatic families

Having traveled a lot through South- and Southeast Asia, I have seen many different kinds of Chinese tourists. Being on the road this Chinese New Year, I was again reminded of their peculiarities. One of the most common types is the one described below\.

Who?
A mom, a dad, 1 or 2 kids (byebye one child policy) and often some extended family members like grandparents.

Where?
Most families obviously have a limited program. Chinese families often even more so since they focus on the main attractions.

Why?
This is probably the beginning of family life and they are just settling in. With the kids still being small they get in for free at most spots. Everyone can relax a little bit, see some different things and meet new people.

Their thoughts?
Mom: a combination of tired, worried and excited. One of the few holidays need to be spent happily with family. But it is hot, and there is so much to take care of. Luckily dad carries most of the snacks and drinks. Are the kids hungry? Are they not getting too tanned? Where is dad anyway? Will I be able to buy all the souvenirs I promised my co-workers to bring back? This bird is so pretty, I really need to take a photo of this. Our kids should really learn more about nature now that they have the chance. Which sightseeing spots have we not covered yet?

Dad: this is not entirely how I pictured life with a kid. A heavy photo camera dangles on my belly, which is also starting to accumulate some ‘baby fat’. God is it hot here. Wiping my forehead while looking for some shade. This garden is really nice and the kids are playing outside. Sitting down this suddenly feels eerily similar to any other time I go out with mom. Waiting, looking and obeying. Mom motions you to take photos of something. What will be for dinner tonight?

Kid(s): so many different things! I can jump from the tree to the stairs. I want to carve out my name in this tree! And in the stairs! And in the temple! Where is dad? I want food. Mom is so annoying taking her time. When are we going home?

Grandparent(s): I am getting too old for this. But it is really nice to see the kids play. Do they drink enough though? I can tell all my friends in the park once I return that my grandchildren already went abroad.

My thoughts?
Families rank about medium on my irritation/frustration scale. Of course it depends on the age of the kids. Babies are terrible when they cry or excrete bodily fluids. When they talk and walk, kids often do too much of both. Grandparents tend to walk too slow and skip lines since they can often get away with it. Moms often take pictures of everything all the time. Dads mostly just look sad. But for the average backpacker, Chinese families are quite avoidable. Also, it looks quite exhausting to be in a different country with a group that seems to have mixed goals. It really turns fun into a verb.